Peat Moss or Coco Coir: These are the “base” of the mix, retaining moisture without making the soil soggy. Peat moss is affordable and widely available, but coco coir is a more sustainable option (it’s made from coconut husks) and holds water better. Both help keep the soil light and airy.

Perlite or Orchid Bark: These add drainage and air pockets, preventing the soil from compacting. Perlite is lightweight and white, while orchid bark (chopped pine bark) adds texture and breaks down slowly, feeding the soil over time. For Monsteras, perlite is great for smaller plants, while orchid bark works well for larger, mature ones.

Potting Soil: A high-quality, all-purpose potting soil (avoid garden soil—it’s too heavy) adds nutrients and structure. Look for a mix that’s labeled “organic” or “for tropical plants” to ensure it has the right balance of minerals.

Worm Castings or Compost (Optional): These are natural fertilizers that add slow-release nutrients, improving soil health without the risk of chemical burn. A handful of worm castings mixed in will give your Monstera a gentle boost.

Gather Your Supplies: You’ll need a new pot (2-3 inches wider in diameter than the current one, with drainage holes), your homemade soil mix, a trowel or spoon, and a pair of clean scissors (for trimming roots).

Prepare the New Pot: Add a 1-2 inch layer of soil to the bottom of the new pot. This will give the roots a base to grow into.

Remove the Monstera from Its Current Pot: Gently tap the sides of the pot to loosen the soil. Hold the plant by the base of the stem and pull gently—if it’s stuck, run a knife around the edge of the soil to release it.

Inspect and Trim the Roots: Once the plant is out, gently brush off excess soil to see the roots. Healthy roots are white or light brown and firm; rotted roots are dark brown, mushy, and smell bad. Use clean scissors to trim off any rotted roots—this prevents the spread of disease.

Place the Plant in the New Pot: Set the Monstera in the center of the new pot, making sure the top of the root ball is 1-2 inches below the rim of the pot (this leaves room for watering). Adjust the soil under the root ball if needed to level it.

Fill in with Soil: Use your trowel or hands to add soil around the root ball, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Don’t pack the soil too tightly—you want it to stay light and airy.

Water Thoroughly: After repotting, water the Monstera slowly until water drains out the bottom of the pot. This helps the soil settle around the roots and reduces transplant shock.

Place in a Shady Spot: For the first 1-2 weeks, keep the repotted Monstera in bright, indirect light (avoid direct sun) to let it recover. After that, move it back to its usual spot.

Dead or Yellow Leaves: These leaves are no longer contributing to the plant—they’re just using up energy. Cut them off at the base of the stem (where the leaf meets the main stem) to redirect energy to new growth.

Leggy Stems: If your Monstera has long, thin stems with big gaps between leaves (called “legginess”), it’s a sign it’s not getting enough light. Prune these stems back to a node (the small, bumpy spot where a leaf or root grows). New growth will sprout from the node, making the plant bushier.

Overcrowded Growth: If the center of your Monstera is too dense, air can’t circulate, leading to pests or disease. Trim back a few of the older, inner stems to let light and air in.

Aerial Roots (Sometimes): Aerial roots are normal—they help the Monstera climb and absorb moisture. But if they’re too long or unruly, you can trim them back to 1-2 inches from the stem. Don’t cut them all off, though—they’re important for the plant’s health.

Sanitize Your Tools: Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Sanitize them with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution before and after pruning to prevent the spread of disease.

Identify What to Cut: Stand back and look at your Monstera—note which leaves or stems are dead, yellow, or leggy. Mark nodes with a small piece of tape if you’re unsure where to cut (cuts should be ¼ inch above a node).

Make Clean Cuts: Cut at a 45-degree angle just above a node. A clean cut heals faster than a jagged one, reducing the risk of infection. For thick stems, use pruning shears—scissors may crush the stem.

Remove Trimmings: Discard dead or diseased leaves immediately (don’t compost them, as they can spread pests or fungi). If you’re pruning healthy stems, you can use them to propagate new Monsteras (more on that below!).

Water Gently: After pruning, water your Monstera lightly to reduce stress. Avoid getting water on the cuts—this can cause rot.

Don’t Overwater: Even with well-draining soil, overwatering is a risk. Water only when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry—stick your finger in to check.

Provide Support: Monsteras are climbing plants. Add a moss pole or coco coir pole to the pot to help them grow upward, which encourages larger leaves.

Rotate Regularly: Turn the pot ¼ turn every 2-3 weeks to ensure all sides get equal light, preventing the plant from leaning.

Monitor Humidity: Monsteras love humidity (50-60%). If the air is dry, use a humidifier or pebble tray to boost moisture—this keeps leaves glossy and prevents brown edges.