Avoid direct sunlight: Placing your anthurium in a window with direct morning or afternoon sun can cause the spathe to fade and the leaves to develop brown, scorched spots. If your only window gets direct light, use a sheer curtain to filter it.

Opt for bright, indirect light: A north-facing or east-facing window is ideal. North-facing windows provide consistent, soft light year-round, while east-facing windows get gentle morning light (which is less intense than afternoon sun).

Check for low light signs: If your anthurium is in a spot with too little light, it will grow slowly, and new leaves may be smaller than usual. The spathe may also take longer to develop or fade quickly. If you notice these signs, move the plant to a brighter area (but still avoid direct sun).

Use a pebble tray: Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and add water until the pebbles are half-submerged. Place your anthurium pot on top of the pebbles (make sure the pot doesn’t touch the water—this prevents root rot). As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity around the plant.

Mist the leaves regularly: Use a spray bottle filled with room-temperature water to mist the leaves and spathe 2 to 3 times a week. Avoid misting too much, though—if the leaves stay wet for too long, they can develop fungal diseases.

Group plants together: Placing your anthurium near other houseplants creates a “microclimate” of higher humidity, as plants release moisture through their leaves (a process called transpiration).

Use a humidifier: If you have multiple tropical plants or live in a very dry climate, a humidifier is a great investment. Set it to maintain 60% to 80% humidity in the room where your anthurium is located.

Daytime temperatures: Keep your anthurium in a room where the temperature is between 70°F and 85°F (21°C and 29°C). This is the range where they grow most actively and produce healthy spathes.

Nighttime temperatures: Don’t let the temperature drop below 60°F (15°C) at night. Temperatures below this can cause the leaves to turn yellow and the spathe to wilt.

Avoid cold drafts: Keep your anthurium away from windows that are left open in winter, air conditioning vents, and doors that open to the outside. Cold air blowing directly on the plant will stress it out.

1 part peat moss (or coco coir, which is more sustainable)

1 part perlite (to improve drainage)

1 part orchid bark (to add texture and help with aeration)

Growing season (spring and summer): Fertilize every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20). Dilute the fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the package—anthuriums are sensitive to strong fertilizers.

Fall and winter: Stop fertilizing during this time, as the plant’s growth slows down and it doesn’t need extra nutrients.

Choose the right fertilizer: Look for a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (the middle number on the package), as phosphorus helps promote flower (spathe) production. For example, a 10-30-20 fertilizer is a good choice for encouraging spathes.

Never fertilize a dry plant: Water the plant first, then apply the fertilizer. Fertilizing a dry plant can burn the roots.

Avoid getting fertilizer on the leaves or spathe: If you accidentally get fertilizer on the foliage, wipe it off with a damp cloth to prevent burning.

Aphids: Small, green or black insects that suck sap from the leaves and spathes. They leave behind a sticky residue (honeydew) that can attract mold.

Mealybugs: White, fuzzy insects that cluster on the undersides of leaves or along the stems. They also suck sap and leave honeydew.

Spider mites: Tiny, red or brown mites that spin webs on the undersides of leaves. They cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Root rot: Caused by overwatering or poorly draining soil. Signs include yellow leaves, wilting, and a bad smell from the soil.

Leaf spot: Fungal disease that causes brown or black spots on the leaves. It’s often caused by too much moisture on the leaves (from over-misting or poor air circulation).

Cause: Overwatering (root rot) or root-bound plant.

Fix: Check the roots—if they’re brown and mushy, repot the plant (removing rotted roots) in fresh soil. If the roots are tightly packed, repot into a larger pot.

Cause: Too much direct sunlight, low humidity, or lack of nutrients.

Fix: Move the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light, increase humidity (use a pebble tray or humidifier), and fertilize during the growing season.

Cause: Low humidity or underwatering.

Fix: Increase humidity (mist the leaves, use a pebble tray) and check the soil more often—water when the top 1 to 2 inches are dry.

Cause: Too little light, not enough fertilizer, or the plant is too young.

Fix: Move the plant to a brighter spot, fertilize with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer during the growing season, and be patient—young anthuriums (less than 1 year old) may not produce spathes yet.

Consistency is key: Stick to a regular watering and fertilizing schedule, and keep the light, temperature, and humidity levels stable.

Observe your plant: Check your anthurium every few days for signs of stress (yellow leaves, fading spathes, pests). The earlier you catch a problem, the easier it is to fix.

Be patient: Anthuriums grow slowly, so don’t expect new leaves or spathes to appear overnight. With the right care, your plant will reward you with vibrant growth.