First, check the roots. Gently take the ivy out of its pot and look at the root ball. If the roots are brown and mushy (instead of white or light tan and firm), you have root rot.

Trim off the rotten roots with clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Make sure to cut all the damaged parts—leave only the healthy, firm roots.

Repot the ivy in fresh, well-draining soil. Use a mix made for houseplants (or 2 parts potting soil + 1 part perlite + 1 part peat moss) to ensure good drainage.

Water only when the top 1 inch of soil is dry. Stick your finger into the soil—if it feels dry at that depth, water slowly until it drains out the bottom. Empty the saucer under the pot right away to avoid standing water.

Water the ivy thoroughly. Pour room-temperature water over the soil until it drains out the bottom. You might need to water slowly—dry soil can repel water at first, so give it time to soak in.

Check the soil more often. Get into a routine of testing the top 1 inch of soil every 3 to 5 days. If it’s dry, water again.

Boost humidity (for indoor ivy). Dry air can make underwatering worse by pulling moisture from the leaves. Mist the ivy 2 to 3 times a week, or place the pot on a tray of pebbles and water (don’t let the pot sit in water).

For too much light: Move the ivy to a spot with filtered light. If it’s outdoors, place it under a tree or on a shaded porch. If it’s indoor, use a sheer curtain to block direct sun from east or south-facing windows.

For too little light: Relocate the ivy to a brighter area. Indoor ivy does well near north or east-facing windows (where light is gentle but consistent). Outdoor ivy needs partial shade—avoid dark corners or areas with less than 4 hours of indirect light a day.

Watch for new growth. If the new leaves are green and healthy, you’ve found the right spot. If yellowing continues, try adjusting again.

Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer with equal parts nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)—like a 10-10-10 mix.

Fertilize sparingly. Indoor ivy only needs fertilizer once a month during spring and summer (its growing season). Outdoor ivy can be fertilized every 6 to 8 weeks in spring and summer.

Dilute the fertilizer. Mix it to half the strength recommended on the package—too much fertilizer can burn the roots and cause more yellowing (this is called “fertilizer burn”).

Skip fertilizing in fall and winter. Ivy grows slowly during these months and doesn’t need extra nutrients.

Move the ivy to a brighter spot. For indoor ivy, this means a north or east-facing window with bright, indirect light. For outdoor ivy, choose a location with partial shade (not full shade).

Rotate the pot (indoor ivy). If your ivy is leaning toward the light, rotate the pot 180 degrees every week. This ensures all sides of the plant get equal light, preventing lopsided, leggy growth.

Be patient. It might take a few weeks for new, bushy growth to appear. In the meantime, you can prune the leggy stems (more on that below) to encourage fuller growth.

Choose the right time. Prune in spring or early summer, when the ivy is actively growing. This helps the plant recover faster.

Use clean, sharp tools. Scissors or pruning shears work—wipe them with rubbing alcohol first to prevent disease.

Cut back to a node. Look for a node on the leggy stem (usually 4 to 6 inches from the tip). Cut just above the node—this is where new growth will sprout.

Don’t overdo it. You can cut back up to 1/3 of the plant’s total length. Cutting more than that might stress the ivy.

Use cuttings to propagate (optional). Stick the pruned stems in a glass of room-temperature water (make sure a node is submerged). Roots will grow in 2 to 4 weeks, and you can plant them to make new ivy plants—perfect for filling in sparse areas!

Stop fertilizing for 1 to 2 months. Let the plant use up the excess nutrients in the soil.

Flush the soil (indoor ivy). If you think you’ve overfertilized, water the ivy thoroughly until water runs out the bottom of the pot. This helps wash away excess fertilizer salts.

Fertilize sparingly going forward. As a rule, indoor ivy needs fertilizer once a month in spring and summer (diluted to half strength), and outdoor ivy every 6 to 8 weeks. Skip fertilizing in fall and winter.

Boost humidity: Mist the leaves 2 to 3 times a week, use a humidifier, or place the pot on a tray of pebbles and water.

Water properly: Make sure the soil stays consistently moist (not soggy) by checking the top 1 inch of soil regularly.

Wipe leaves with a damp cloth. This removes small numbers of pests.

Use insecticidal soap. Mix 1 teaspoon of mild dish soap with 1 quart of room-temperature water. Spray the leaves (including undersides) every 7 days until pests are gone.

For severe infestations: Use neem oil (a natural pesticide). Follow the instructions on the bottle—neem oil is safe for most plants but can harm beneficial insects, so use it sparingly.

Remove infected leaves. Cut off any leaves with spots and throw them away (don’t compost them—this spreads the fungus).

Improve air circulation. For indoor ivy, keep it away from other plants (don’t crowd it). For outdoor ivy, prune dense growth to let air flow through.

Avoid getting leaves wet. Water the soil directly (not the leaves) and reduce misting until the problem clears up.

Use a fungicide (if needed). Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda with 1 teaspoon of dish soap and 1 quart of water. Spray the plant every 10 days until spots are gone.

Choose the right pot. Use a pot with drainage holes—this is non-negotiable for preventing overwatering and root rot.

Repot every 1 to 2 years (indoor ivy). When the roots start growing out of the drainage holes, it’s time to move the ivy to a pot that’s 1 to 2 inches larger in diameter. Use fresh, well-draining soil.

Protect outdoor ivy in winter. Most ivy varieties are hardy, but extreme cold (below 20°F/-6°C) can damage leaves. Cover outdoor ivy with a frost cloth or bring potted ivy indoors during cold snaps.